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The arbour setting can be determined according to the size of the seedbed. The shade shed should be larger than the seedbed by 30-50 cm. The height of the shade scaffold is 100-150 cm. If it is too high, it is not easy to block the wind. Wind barriers are set up on the windward side to avoid the danger of strong winds and cold air.
Leave a 50 cm field road between the seedbeds for watering, weeding and transporting seedlings. Always check the water requirement of the mango seedlings and the protective performance of the arbour. If water shortages and arbours are found to be damaged, watering and arbours should be promptly repaired.
In continuous drought, flood irrigation should be used for irrigation, and water should be diffused to the seedbed and overburden.
Winter should not be fertilized, but if the growth of the seedlings after 1 month of bagging is thin, the organic matter content of the nutrient soil can be applied with 0.5% to 1% of urea for foliar application to promote seedling growth. Into the fall (around October), it is not suitable to apply quick-acting nitrogen fertilizer. It can be sprayed 1 or 2 times with 0.5% potassium sulfate. The interval time is about 15 days, which can improve the cold resistance of seedlings.
The hardening seedlings are carried out in two periods.
The first period is before winter. Demolition of the arbours took place in the evening until the second day, before the sun came out, it took shelter again, or the shelter was removed on cloudy days. When there was the sun, it was put on the arbours. Note that during the period of hardening, the local temperature should not be lower than 15°C, the extreme minimum temperature should not be lower than 10°C, and the duration can be as short as 8°C.
If the young seedlings are still tender before winter, they can be properly sun-seedling to increase the photosynthetic performance of the leaves, accelerate the aging of the tissues, and increase the cold resistance. However, it should not be exposed to strong light for a long time so as not to cause high temperature burning.
The time for hardening the seedlings before and after November should be about 1 month before planting in the nursery. This season is in the high temperature season. The hardening seedlings need to be gradually carried out, and start to be sunned for about 2 hours every day.
If the seedlings were not damaged after 1 week, the top cover of the shade shelter can be removed to improve the seedling resistance and the survival rate of planting.
Winter mango seedlings are susceptible to powdery mildew and aphid damage. Powdery mildew harms young tissues and leaves, and can be sprayed with 15% triadimefon for 800-1000 times. Aphids mainly harm stems and leaves, and can be sprayed with 40% omethoate 1000-1500 times. In places where rodent activity is frequent, rodent prevention work should be done, and poison bait trapping and killing methods can be used.
Winter bagged mango seedlings management
Choose an open area with flat terrain, convenient drainage and irrigation, and avoid setting up seedbeds in areas where tuyere and cold air are easily deposited. The size of the seedbed can be based on the topography. It is generally 100 cm wide and depends on the terrain. The seedbed is dug into a trough-shaped rectangle 5 to 8 cm below the ground. The soil in the trough should be loosened and leveled, which will help stabilize the seedlings and keep warm. Moisturizing. After setting seedlings, the surrounding soil shall be placed around the bagged seedlings to form a cover soil protective layer. Drainage trenches were dug across the seedbed to facilitate drainage during the rainy season and irrigation during the dry season.