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Fertilizer for vegetables to "six look"
A closer look at crop-specific fertilization practices:
Legumes, such as beans and peas, have nitrogen-fixing root nodules, which means they require less nitrogen and phosphorus compared to other crops. Root vegetables like carrots and potatoes need more potassium for healthy growth, while leafy greens such as spinach and lettuce benefit from higher levels of nitrogen. For fruit-bearing crops, it's essential to apply the three main nutrients—nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium—in balanced amounts to ensure optimal yield and quality.
Second, consider the impact of climate on fertilization. In warm, rainy conditions, fertilizers tend to break down quickly, leading to nutrient loss. Therefore, it’s best to apply smaller amounts. Conversely, in cooler or drier climates, fertilizers decompose more slowly, so it’s wise to apply them earlier and in larger quantities to ensure plants receive adequate nutrients over time.
Third, soil type plays a crucial role. Black loam and light loam soils are rich in nutrients and retain moisture well, making them ideal for heavy fertilizer application. Sandy loam soils, however, have poor fertility and drainage, so it’s better to apply fertilizer more frequently but in smaller doses to avoid runoff and waste.
Fourth, the stage of plant growth should guide your fertilization strategy. Vegetables typically follow a pattern of "small seedling stage, stable flowering period, and heavy fruit period." During the early phase, nitrogen-rich fertilizers promote strong growth, while during the middle stage, a mix of nitrogen and phosphorus supports flowering. In the later stages, a combination of all three nutrients helps with fruit development. Early-maturing varieties should be fertilized sooner, while late-maturing ones can be fed later to avoid overgrowth.
Fifth, the type of fertilizer matters. Organic manure provides long-lasting benefits and serves as a good base fertilizer, while chemical fertilizers act faster and are ideal for top-dressing. Urea, for example, is best applied 4–6 days before use to allow it to break down. Phosphorus doesn’t move much in the soil, so it should be placed near the roots when used as a base or seed fertilizer. If applied as a top dressing, it should be placed directly in the root zone for maximum absorption.
Lastly, pay attention to fertilizer compatibility. Acidic fertilizers like ammonium sulfate, ammonium bicarbonate, and human urine should not be mixed with wood ash. Ammonium chloride and potassium chloride are not suitable for crops like potatoes that are sensitive to chlorine. Urea can be used as a foliar spray, but the concentration should not exceed 1% to avoid burning the leaves. Always read labels and follow guidelines to ensure safe and effective application.