Kiwi Shaping and Pruning
The kiwifruit has no erect main trunk and a fixed tree shape under natural conditions and grows on trees or other objects. The main purpose of pruning is to create a good tree shape as soon as possible and to produce high quality fruit year after year. 1. Plastic: In order to adapt to the current level of scaffolding or "T"-shaped scaffolding, kiwifruit should use "X" or "one" shape reshaping. The method of "one" shape shaping is to select one new shoot with strong growth (or two, one of which is available) and attach it to a temporary bamboo pole set up next to the plant to make it grow straight upwards (cultivation). Back to top. After being put on the shelf, it was attached to the wire in the center of the rack as the first main vine. In the future, one of the secondary shoots that has occurred in the turn is selected as the second main vine that grows stronger, and its growth direction is opposite to that of the first main vine, thereby forming a “one†shaped skeleton on the shelf. In the following year, 4 main vines were cultivated on each main vine, and 2 to 3 side vines were cultivated on each main vine. For Chinese kiwi fruit with moderate growth potential, side vines are often the result of the mother branch, and the next year can be followed by the result of the branch. When the length of side vines exceeds the width of the shelf, they can be allowed to droop as long as they can maintain a distance of about 50 cm from the ground. The “Xâ€-shaped plasticity method is basically the same as the “一â€-shaped plasticity method. After the “one†shape is formed, each strong vine induces a strong auxiliary tip to become the main vine. On the shelf surface, a skeleton of “X†shape with 4 main vines is formed. Afterwards, several main vine vines and side vines are cultivated on the main vine, and the resulting mother vines are cultivated on the side vines. After 4 to 5 years, the branches can be covered. 2. Smearing and pricking dry: spring temperature rises, the colonized kiwifruit sprouts, and soon enters a vigorous growth period, at this time pay attention to wipe the buds to cultivate the trunk. Generally, 1 to 2 buds below the fixed cutting edge grow more vigorously. One of the more robust buds can be selected as the target for the cultivation of the trunk, so that it can continue to grow, and the rest can be erased, and a small amount can be inserted next to the seedlings. Bamboo rafts are tied to bamboo rafts with small ropes so that bamboo rafts support seedlings to grow upward. However, care should be taken to prevent the trunk from growing around bamboo shoots. Once the seedlings are wrapped around bamboo rafts, they tend to weaken, grow slowly, or stop growing, and they cannot achieve the goal of nurturing the trunk. The spring shoot growth of some plants is weak and cannot be cultivated as a trunk. For these plants, a short cut is made before the summer shoots are pumped. The method is to cut all the parts of the plants about 30 cm from the ground, so that the plant interface is above the site. The buds sprouted in summer shoots. Generally summer shoots are more robust and can be cultured as spring stem cultures. Throughout the growing season, seedlings continue to sprout at the base and should be removed at any time. 3. Cultivation of the main vine and the resulting mother branch: After the seedlings are planted, if the management is better, the trunk will soon grow to the top of the scaffolding, and it is necessary to cultivate the main vine in time. Whether it is a scaffolding or a trellis, the main trunk will be short when the main trunk grows up to a flat support line or about 10 cm below the support line. In the case of better water and fertilizer conditions, most of the buds under the cutting can germinate after a short period of time, and the buds must be promptly wiped, leaving only two buds at the cut point, allowing them to fully grow and develop into the main vine. When the main vine spreads and grows more than 20 centimeters between the pillars of the two plants, it is torn to stop its extension and to promote the extraction of new shoots. The new shoots are left every 20 centimeters and left as a result of the cultivation of the mother tree. Regardless of whether the main trunk is short-cut or after the main vine has been topping, the seedlings at the base of the seedlings will all sprout many sprouts and must be eradicated in time to avoid consuming large amounts of nutrients and affecting the growth of the trunk or the main vine. If the measures taken are appropriate, one year of cultivation can be cultivated into a good canopy skeleton, laying the foundation for future growth and flowering results. 4. Pruning: The purpose of kiwifruit pruning is to establish and maintain the reasonable structure of growing branches and fruiting branches on the basis of plasticity, so that the balance between plant growth and results can be achieved, and the purpose of high yield and stable fruit quality can be achieved. If it is not pruned and allowed to grow naturally, it will cause intensive disturbance of the vines, too shady in the orchard, poor ventilation and light transmission, less fruit, poor fruit quality, and obvious annual size. Therefore, kiwifruit must be trimmed to remove some dead branches, weak branches, leggy branches, dense branches and diseased shoots, and adjust the appropriate density of the resulting mother branches. Pruning is divided into growth trimming and dormancy trimming, ie summer trimming and winter trimming. Different shelves use different methods of pruning.